Now that you know the condition of the home's structure and systems you will want to determine if it is safe to live in. There are many possible environmental health issues pertaining to homes. I will only talk about the most common problems I observe as a home inspector in this area.
Water Quality
Unless your home is on a public water system you should have your home's water tested. Wells can become contaminated without the occupants knowledge. Testing is the only way to know. There are several different water tests. The most popular is a test for bacteria and chemicals known as a potability test. Chemical includes nitrites, nitrates and turbidity. The next test includes the above but adds lead and is required by the VA and other government loans. Other contaminants you can have checked for an additional fee include: alkalinity, magnesium, iron, hardness, pH, chloride, color and corrosivity. This test is good to determine if your water should be treated by a water softner. Mineral deposits are one of the leading causes of problems for most plumbing fixtures and appliances, this is especially true for ice makers and dishwashers. Home supplied by public water system are typically tested by community agencies.
Indoor Air Quality (IAQ)
Indoor air quality is a relatively new concern for homes. Prior to 1980 not much was heard about Radon, Mold, Allergens or dust particles. These problems rose dramatically in the 1980's. Why? After the energy shortage of the 1970, builders began building homes with better insulation and reduced air leakage. Consequently, significantly less fresh air enters newer "tighter" homes than older homes. Contaminants now build to significantly higher levels. The primary means of reducing any IAQ problem is reduction of contaminants and by dilution. Dilution is obtained by ventilation or the introduction of fresh air.
Radon
Radon is an odorless, colorless, tasteless gas. It is undetectable without testing. All homes no matter the style or construction method can have elevated radon. The surgeon general estimates radon as the second leading cause of lung cancer in the US. The EPA recommends all homes be tested for elevated levels of radon. Radon is prevalent in Western MD and Eastern Panhandle of WV. WV has licensing for radon testers and mitigators, Maryland does not have licensing.
I find elevated levels of radon in about 1 of 4 homes I test. Surprising to most people, newer homes typically have higher levels than older homes. Why? New homes are more "air tight" and concentrations tend to build up. Any openings in the basement slab (missing sump hole covers) can act as a funnel and direct radon into the home.
There are two different tests for radon, long term and short term. A long term test is the most accurate and runs for 90 days to one year. This test is not feasible for time sensitive real estate transactions. For this reason they allow a short term test which must be conducted for a minimum of 48 hrs. and is the most common radon test.
There are several methods of testing for radon. I use Constant Radon Measurement (CRM) electronic devices which take hourly readings and then calculate the average. The Self Test kits (for home owners), I sell are charcoal canisters which are set out for the testing period then sent to a lab for analysis.
However, you should be aware that radon levels vary dramatically, hour by hour, by season, weather and soil conditions. For example when storms approach and the barometric pressure drops radon is more readily liberated from the soil. For this reason I recommend homeowners follow up with a long term test they do their self, even if they had their home tested by a professional. These test kits typically run around $40. You may email HouseDetectives if you wish to purchase a self test kit. Additional long term test should be done every three to five years or after any remodeling in the basement or crawlspace.
If your home has elevated levels of radon, relax mitigation is effective and inexpensive. Correcting high levels of radon should only be done by a licensed mitigator and usually consist of sealing any opening or cracks in the foundation and then by providing a vent from under the basement slab to the roof. Natural chimney affect pulls the radon from under the home and out the vent. For tougher jobs a fan is added. Cost usually run between $800 and $1200.
Additional information and links to the EPA and other RADON sites may be found byClick Here for RADON info
Mold
Again before 1980 you never heard much about mold, it was not an issue affecting a significant number or persons or homes. Not that it didn't exist. All homes, then and now, have some mold. But due to the air leakage of homes built before 1970, spores did not tend to accumulate to excessive or dangerous levels. And some persons got sick but mold was not determined to be the cause.
Three things are needed for mold to thrive. Organic material is needed as a food source. Typical building materials such as wood, drywall, paper and dust/dirt are viable sources. Second, moderately warm temperatures. Finally a moisture source is required. Since the first two cannot be controlled, controlling moisture is the primary means to prevent mold growth. Wood rot or decay is simply the breakdown of wood fibers by mold and fungi. Wood doesn't rot unless it has a moisture source.
Moisture can be provided by two means. Leakage can come from the roof, around doors and windows, foundations and plumbing leaks. Condensation is the second source of moisture and generally affects the largest area. Condensation problems typically occur in attics and crawlspaces when vapor barriers are missing and ventilation is inadequate. Mold may damage structural framing members and presents a health risk from air borne spores.
HouseDetectives does not recommend mold air sampling unless occupants have allergies or respiratory problems or the inspector observes "Red Flags" during the Home Inspection. Red Flags are typically visible suspected mold over 10 sq.ft. (smaller areas may be cleaned and treated by owner) or signs of moisture (leakage, water intrusion stains and condensation).
There are many different protocols and testing for mold, but few universally accepted standards. No test is totally conclusive. Mold testing (unless performed by an environmental hygienist) cannot absolutely determine that no mold spores are present.
HouseDetectives provides Air Sampling for Mold. We take an indoor and an outdoor air sample using a calibrated vacuum pump pulling air across a sterile filter. The samples are sent to an accredited mold laboratory which will analyze the samples. The lab can identify the individual mold spores present. (Certain spores are potentially toxic and much more dangerous to human health than others.) Additionally the lab compares the indoor sample to the outdoor sample (base line) and looks for any elevated levels in the indoor sample as compared to the outdoor sample.
Unknown to most home owners, ductwork for heating and cooling systems are one of the more common sources of air borne mold spores. Dust and dirt provides a food source, condensation during cooling mode provides the moisture. Mold spores and dust particles are distributed throughout the home by the heating and cooling ductwork.
Testing for dust particles and chemicals requires technical and expensive electronic monitors along with extensive training. These tests are generally conducted by environmental hygienist done in an attempt to identify potential contaminants in homes with occupants having allergies or respiratory problems. Periodic duct cleaning is recommended for most homes. HouseDetectives does not provide testing for allergyn or dust particles. Anyone suffering from allergies, sinus, asthma of other respiratory problems should treat the air in the home before testing. Contaminants are there. I recommend installing premium filtration, humidifier on your furnace and adding fresh air by means of a Heat-Recovery-Ventilator. Please contact me should you be interested in more information on these products.
Other Health Concerns
Additional health or environmental hazards which may be present in potential homes:
Buried or leaking fuel tanks.
Chemicals from pesticide treatment of soil for termites of other WDI.
Unknown disposal of industrial solvents or farm pesticides.
Asbestos building material, pipe insulation, floor or ceiling tiles and other materials
Degassing of foam insulations.
Volatile chemicals from carpet and other home materials.
